Noted Russian novelist Ivan Turgenev once wrote, "We sit in the mud... and reach for the stars." OK. Check. Then it was Lance Loud that mused "I have been found in a mud puddle at 4:30 in the morning." So have we. Not sure if we had any classic Joy Division on our playlists over the past traumatic weekend but we now reflect on co-founder and bassist Peter Hook who suggested, "I think people expect mud at festivals, I think you'd be asking for your money back if you didn't get it." With that in mind let us remind the world that we signed up for Trailwalker Japan, not Glastonbury...
Although to be clear, we would be outstanding headliners.
Where to start? I'll quote from Trace's facebook page...for those those who may not get through the ensuing cathartic mess and are only here for the pics...and hot, mud-clad chicks. Tee's current status says..."Small part of Trailwalker history. Under
horrific conditions, over a thousand people, volunteers, walkers, locals
and staff, all came together as a community to brave fog, sludge, snow,
hail, sleet, mud, rain, zero degree temperatures and everything else
the mountains could throw at us. Thank you to everyone who made this
experience feel a little less harrowing than it actually was. Already
planning next year ;-)"
It was truly horrendous. And difficult to articulate. Any attempt to explain it will just seem an over-indulgent embellished exaggeration. But it really was a nightmare of epic mud pie proportions.
Our fellow walkers agree. It's good to have back-up. We quote our blog buddies the incredibly awesome Snailwalkers who made it the whole hellish way... "Soundtracks - what can i say - it was nice to meet you on the trail - wish it could have been under slightly less traumatic circumstances! I'll cheer from the sidelines if you go again, but I will never ever ever go on that trail again...!"
Snailwalkers you are our heroes.
It will take some time to recover from. But we are all OK physically. Shaken and a bit stirred. Still dirty, nursing our bruises and processing it all. Retiring at a massive and proud 54km in the most extreme conditions.
A few stats:
- 712 walkers
- 178 teams
- 80 teams finished
- 98 teams retired
- Total course ascent is higher than 9 1/2 Sky Trees (when finished)
- Total vertical drop 4500m (ouch, worse in slop...)
- Lots of rain, then hail, then snow, then more rain, rivers & rivers & rivers of mud...
Since last we spoke, the car was packed and we picked up Emma and Erin late Thursday afternoon after a losing battle with Tokyo peak hour traffic. We were on our way. Then not. As Erin forgot some photo ID, but thankfully we only had to do a little blockie to retrieve it. How we all got in and out of the car again remains a mystery.
Finally on the road to Odawara. Hello torrential rain. But Em was positive it was going to stop. We spent a lovely evening at Relax Inn, which we did. Then tried to get some much needed Soundtracker beauty sleep. The big day was mere hours away.
Woke up to...naturallly...rain. And the Soundtrack fairies had visited. Terry towelling head bands and brand new bandanas for us all. They certainly helped channel our inner John Travolta, circa Staying Alive or Olivia in Physical. Represent your preferred icon and all that. There seemed to be more in the car than the previous day. But we all bundled in with pillows and blankies piled high and rocked up to Shiroyama Track and Field with headbands oh so ON!
Just giddy with excitement. Parked the car. And then it kind of hit us...all that planning, week's of packing and organising, months of weekend training and trail dancing, bonding and bathing. It was for now. We were actually going to start those 100ks for real. Time for some registration and bumbled our way through that process. Em went blank on camera when we asked her for the team chant. She got nervous. Met up with other lovely teams. Got our lucky #59 bibs, the calorie mates and towels. Then got all our gear together and started working the body glide onto our feet.
Raining, raining. But thanks to a last minute ditch and re-think of our 100% commitment to Konan's polyester at least one of us (Trace) was wearing Gortex and I had my new Sports Depo Rain Suit on. We were good to go and so far pretty dry. Time for some starting line photos avec BANNER!
Tremendous, we know. Costco ¥1990.
So excited. Gun went off at 9am and we jogged the 2 laps out of the stadium to the bemusement of onlookers and supporters. We jumped and leaped a lot too. No shame, obviously. But it was truly strategic to get ahead of the congestion at upcoming road which follows the quaint irrigation channel. Bit puffed but mainly chuffed.
We made it to CP1 in good time, albeit in the fog and rain.
Lots & lots of fog. Spooky.
Snack 1 and
catch up with fellow walkers. It's 11.15am and a very wet CP1. Although looking back now that dreary rain isn't a blip on the misery radar.
We abhor the trail from CP 1-2 so we just put our heads down, cranked the iPods high and trudged up that dreadful, truly detestable mother of a hill. Rain all the while. It was just crap. We ate those squashed and mangled peanut butter sando's at the top. And they were so good, albeit a bit soggy.
Met our blog buds the Snailwalkers at the top of Mt Sengen, as you do. About 1.30pm and fog still soupy thick.
CP 2 was not far away. Through the heavy fog and the still continuous
rain we made out our gorgeous support team in the distance at the
Ashinoyu Flower Center, of course wearing their headbands and
brandishing the banner. Marnie and Em cheered for us and for all.
We are
sure many teams are still dealing with sign envy.
Nice weather for a walk. Here we are enjoying the glorious tenki at CP 2.
We're all in good spirits still and making pretty good time, even with the rain. Schedule is on track. Trace and I were beyond jubilant when we crossed the road from the pond to enter the hiking trail and heard Savvy's horn blaring at us. Yes, our support team had actually seen us walking, not just taking a taxi between checkpoints as they had long suspected....
We rocked up to CP 3 laughing and giggling, enjoying the short trek down through the Hakone woods. So excited that we could have our prune. But even more thrilled to see this...
Multi-tasking support crew. How fab.
We dumped all our gear with the girls and took off for the short 12km flat trip around the lake. Nice to be without all our stuff for a while and just stretch the legs. Bit sorry now we didn't stop for some more serious trail dancing. But we were on a mission. There would be a bbq at the end. We move for food.
Arrived to CP 4 about 7pm. Yes, still raining. But the most magnificent feast had been prepared. Thank you so much to our lovely top chefs.Not only was there a feast but we booked in for some stretching, Marnie gave back rubs and we got ready for the evening's activities. All the while that rain keeps coming down.
We met orphan Anna, who was hiking alone and that was so NOT on with us. Leave no hiker behind. So we welcomed her with open arms and very spunky headlamps and asked us to join us for the night hike ahead.
And then the next 10 hours looked mostly like this. With some hail and snow thrown in.
Hello Miyojingatake carnage... Here is the first 15 kms of the Migo-bingo hike before the Garmin died from hypothermia.
Looks normal enough but if we zoom in a little more closely to the section as we enter the mountain trail we see this...
We're not sure if that's us wandering around deliriously in the fog, sliding down mud slides and back up again, being pelted in the head with hailstones or just wandering around in circles like we usually do ...
Or perhaps we're just channeling our inner Mr Messy.
However, the path should look a little more like this (data from our training hike in March):
It's clear we really were having a miserable time up on that mountain. There really are no words for the experience of CP 4-5. It was the worst night of my life by far. Worse than even the prospect of a Footloose remake. To give an indication, we are pretty slow going at the best of times but this 18km section usually takes us 5-6hours in training. On this lovely April eve it took us almost 10 hours. We had done the previous 36 km in 10 hours. These next 18km almost the same amount of time...
The freak snow about a week ago and the days of rain leading up to and during the event made their mark. In some parts of the trail we were sliding through mud up to our knees. For most parts we were ankle deep. And because we were at least half way in the pack the trail had been so churned up by all those hikers before us...it was just diabolical and dangerous. To me it looked chocolatey to the rest of the team it was total diarrhea. Either way it's a diet supplement just thinking about it.
This section tested us. Mentally, physically, very emotionally. Falling down, falling left, falling right, falling on our faces, our behinds, our heads. In most ways we succeeded but in others we failed hopelessly. We can only learn and move forward, even if the mud still sticks. Our teamwork which worked so beautifully in training didn't quite come together on the mountain. Nat and Erin were way ahead and then very lost. But thanks to Sam's amazing course marking, they finally found their way. Tee and I behind dealing with nausea and a few meltdowns of our own. Even with the very wise words of our support team ringing out into the night as we left cp4 "stay together", that night we crept into ourselves, rarely seeing the dim lights of other walkers and dealt with the trauma of those 10 hours split in two.
I don't want to revisit that night anytime soon. I love my team. We thought we'd prepared for every scenario, silly us... we really should have thrown some dirt in the bath tub while Erin was testing the rain gear, all got in together and walked about for a bit...We're on it for next year.
CP5. We made it early Saturday morning. Just after the stinging hail finally subsided and I had the most spectacular of falls. Not telling where the bruises are...Plastic bags almost worked. Dawn came and the temperature dropped. Still sporadic rain drops. So damn cold. There are few words and the photos don't do the Saijo-ji checkpoint justice. Seen a few photos here and there - but it seems that pretty much everyone was too traumatized to take photos. Covered from head to toe in mud, it just didn't seem appropriate to take out the camera that morning. The carnage and misery on every walker's face, seemed like they'd just survived a natural disaster. CP5 looking almost like a refugee camp and we can only say that Sam and staff dealing with it all there - you were amazingly wonderful to this band of bedraggled, mud-crusted survivors. It wasn't long before we joined together as a team once more, the way we work best and made the decision, for safety and sanity, to retire here at a very impressive 54km. It might seem crazy to some to end it here - after all, the next 9km to CP6 are relatively easy and for sure we could make it to CP7. Although CP7 to the end was perhaps another matter, certainly as bad as what we'd just endured. After talking to each other, realizing what we'd all been through that night - some warmth, bonding and bathing were much more needed to heal those wounded souls. Miyojingatake - you didn't break us.
And more importantly we have left the trail wanting to do it again. Key point.
The only picture we have. And here the shoes actually look clean.
We can never thank our amazing support team enough. Emma and Marnie you were completely awesome. We couldn't, wouldn't do this without you. Although we are just a little bit jealous that you seemed to be cafe hopping between checkpoints and enjoying all kinds of "fly".
It still defies explanation but somehow we got 6 people and all our crap and mud in the car (minus one plastic container that we just couldn't fit) and made our way up to Yamanaka-ko. An almost equally terrifying ordeal. Thankfully it was raining so the fuzz weren't around. We checked into the YMCA, hit the bath and had a highly illegal indoors barbie. It was still raining. We were feeling right in our decision. And apple bacon and tofu fakon does make everything better.
Slept for a few hours in the cozy bunks then dropped Marnes off at the station. We miss you Mistress Marnie. So wonderful you could share this with us.Thank you truly for everything and particularly your most excellent bbq skills.
Time for another room partay, with lots of bubbles and lots of cheering for teams that made it. That's what it's all about, right? That and a few drinkies and the nike slogan - there is no finish line.
Sunday morning...could it be any sunnier??? What a fabulous ending to this long, long trip. Time for some serious celebrating/therapy.
Mount Fuji was willing to acquiesce and share in it with us, just this
once - well actually twice. We had double Fuji fun at both the finish
line and the lake.
Did someone say photoshoot Soundtrackers?
Oh, yes they did...
So just how will we cope with all this dramatic fallout? Let's see...
First up brekky at the local Cafe Gusto (or Gutso as we prefer to call it...only place in Yamanakako with pancakes...). And it was here that we realised how right our decision was for us. It's always hard not to second guess yourself especially when it is a glorious day and there is a huge swan boat wearing a crown in your foreground. But within minutes of sitting down and hitting the drink bar, I looked around at our team. And they just overwhelmed me. Erin was already on the iPhone checking out where we'll do Trailwalker next... So excited about the possibility of Canada or France (did someone say a trek through wine and cheese country???) Trace was making notes on times and goals for next year's Japan challenge and Em was planning what snacks and food we would need to prepare for our world Trailwalker tour. Any sponsors? Giddy again and all so positive and content in our accomplishments. The traumatic night on Mingo-bingo a distant memory. Had we kept walking on in those miserable conditions, we may have joined a large group of Trailwalkers who never want to attempt the event again. But by stopping when we did, we will be back next year for sure. Because we want to WANT TO keep doing these kinds of challenges. And isn't half the journey just showing up and making it to the start line? I'd like to hope so. And I'd also like to think that at the toughest times while there are heroics in forging ahead (and we are so in AWE of those that did finish), there is also a certain type of bravery in stopping when it's right for you. But on that lovely Sunday there was no stopping us. We were in deep need of some serious healing...
How to recovering???
A trip to Ishiwari-no-yu Onsen may help.Yep, we're getting better. The delicious hot water and array of machinery helped ease the muscle tension. That and the long, long soak in the outdoor tub with the local oldies all the while planning next year. Nat, first time onsening, had fallen asleep in the jacuzzi bed bath...
Funny engrish always helping to getting the better feelings. Yes, thank you we will taking a break a little by chocolate crunch...
After the onsen it was time for some icecreamery madness. Soft cream always helps. You do the math. 5 chicks. 6 cones. Yummy stuff to you who know true taste. Obviously we are not coping with the aftermath. But as always we will do over very best to overcome all trail related difficulties and trauma...
Then since morning icecream time was over way too soon it was off to Dino's Diner for some well-earned lunch. What's not to love about an American style diner run by a Japanese guy who lived in Paris in the heart of Yamanaka-ko with a sign out the front that says "Big Eater Heavy Drinker Welcome"? Makes so much sense. So us. Super yummy onion rings and interior. A serious game of Uno with lots of cheating.
Clearly we are still in need of some austere analysis. We have discovered both this and your inner Trailwalking Guru can be found at the uber cool, very eco Hammock Cafe. Fancy a swing? Fancy a sage Swami Emma? It's all yours for the cost of a very reasonable foamy cappucino.
We are renting the hammock cottages here for our final pitstop next year.
A truly enlightening experience on many levels.
Homeward bound finally. Fuji capped off the goodbyes...
Photo credits - Emma (especially for the spunky Fuji photoshoot), Dee (while on the trail), Marnie (at the CP's) and very very
infrequently, Trace (when we made her).
Thank you all so very much for sharing in every amusing /thrilling/challenging step of our Trailwalker Japan junket. We did our very best for you all in horrific conditions & hope you see the achievement in those 54km (especially those last 18) as much as we feel it. We know we haven't let you down in the drama/hilarity department...that's for sure. Whether you've been a donor, a friend, a family member, a blog stalker, a supporter, a fellow oxfamer, someone interested in our misfortune, stupidity, our many fashionable faux pas & dilemmas, or a fan of our meltdowns, playlists, dance moves and magical moments - we love and appreciate you all.
Here's to the next tornado of trouble just one short year away. And all the mischief and mayhem that Team Soundtrackers will get up to in the upcoming 12 months. See you in 2011...maybe the mud will be out of our toenails by then.
"Courage doesn't always roar. Sometimes courage is the quiet voice at the end of the day saying, "I will try again tomorrow." - Mary Anne Radmacher
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